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Grading A Diamond's Cut
The Round Brilliant/Tolkowsky's Cut
The Depth (Or Height) Of The Diamond

The Russian Mathematics genius Tolkowsky's recommended cut height for a Round Brilliant is 59.3% that of the diameter of the diamond, which breaks down to about 43% for the pavilion, and 16% for the height of the crown. This 59% is probably the most crucial dimension of the stone.

You will see diamonds that are too shallow (the height is significantly smaller than 59%) or too chunky (significantly over 59%). Don't buy stones which deviate too much from this value. In practical terms you want to find a diamond at approximately 60% depth and 60% in table percentage as a good rule of thumb.

The Table of the Diamond

Probably the most noticeable proportion on a Brilliant Cut diamond is the size of the table.

Tolkowsky found the table to be ideal at 53% of the diameter of the stone. But the Eppler Cut and the Scandinavian Cut have tables at 56% and 57.5% respectively. The appraising guidelines penalize diamonds with tables above 64% pretty severely, when you go shopping, you'll see tables all the way into 70's. Table percentage should be in the upper fifties or lower sixties...

Imagine that!!!!!!!!!!