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Back at the turn of the century, Marcel Tolkowsky,
a member of a large and powerful diamond family, calculated
the cuts necessary to create the ideal diamond shape.
As part of his PhD thesis in mathematics, Tolkowsky considered
variables such as index of
refraction and covalent bond angles to describe what has become known as the brilliant
cut. This is by far my favorite cut, having the brilliance and fire that no other cut really approaches. A large table (over 64%) can really kill the diamond's beauty, and a stone which it too shallow will also "die optically"... Where a great place to be is in the 58.5-62% depth and a table size in the mid fifties, but to about 62% safely for beauty.
If you have ever wondered what the term "Ideal Cut" meant I have a common sense explaination I think you'll enjoy.
The AGS defines "Ideal Cut" as a range of Table diameters between 53-57%, Crown Angles at 34-35%, Crown Height at 15-16.5%, Girdle Thickness at Thin to Medium, Pavilion Angle of 41% with the Pavilion depth at 43-43.5%... Culet at Very Small/None with total depth at 60-62% for their cut grade of ideal... We're talking perfect alignment of the crown and pavilion facets, strict symmetry and a mirror like polish... "No polishing lines or wheel burns need apply"... Modern Jewelers magazine has a great article this month on Ideal cuts... Various cutters have slightly varied definitions of the ideal cut, but if you keep the table size in the mid-fifties and depth between 58-62% you will have a fantastic diamond, and look. I've often said that if the consumer remembers that they have a solid basic understanding to avoid off cuts and poorly cut stone... With certificates and lab reports you are able to completely qualify a diamond you are considering, minus all the sales hype and junk... I wished that GIA gave the more complete dataset for diamond in their lab reports, like crown height and pavilion depth, but I'm sure that they will find it necessary to revise their format soon now that AGS is offering a more complete report.